Wednesday 3 May 2023

DAY 16 - LAON to SAINTE-CROIX (Tuesday 2 May)

After our restful day yesterday we resumed our walk, heading southwards on a combination of walking paths and roads. We left Laon via a staircase path, joining up with the GR145 after a couple of kilometres. We then followed the GR through the village of Bruyères-et-Montbérault, and on to Martigny-Courpierre, where we stopped for our morning refreshment. 
Leaving Laon.
Heading south on the GR145
On the GR145 to Martigny-Courpierre 
The village church in Martigny is quite striking.  The original church was destroyed in 1918. Its replacement was erected in Art Deco style, using reinforced concrete,  in the early 1930s. 
Scenic rest stop - Martigny-Courpierre with its dramatic concrete church
We continued on to the nearby Lac d'Ailette, walking on a Voie Verte (combined walking/cycling path). Much of the lake's foreshore was given over to what looked like a holiday village, so our water views were a bit restricted. 
Around the Lac d'Ailette 
Just past the lake we visited the site of the former village of Ailles, one of several villages destroyed during the first world war and never rebuilt. All that remains at Ailles is a memorial to mark the spot where the village once stood. 
Ailles - destroyed village
Ailles
From Ailles we made our way through paths of varied surfaces to the Chemin des Dames. This area was on the front line during World War I and was the scene of ferocious fighting between the French and the Germans. A major tourist site in the region, the Caverne du Dragon, has a display of the fighting in the area, as well as offering guided tours to the underground quarries where the two armies faced off. 
From Ailles to the Chemin des Dames - a variety of paths
We had our lunch of bread and cheese outside the Caverne du Dragon centre. We then headed inside to read about the history of the site during the First World War. 
Bread and cheese for lunch,  Chemin des Dames 
Caverne du Dragon visitors' centre - a popular tourist attraction
Memorials along the Chemin des Dames 
We headed northwards from the Chemin des Dames to the small village of Sainte-Croix, where we are staying the night. On the way, we stopped at the ruined Abbey of Vauclair and ate some chocolate. 
Abbaye de Vauclair
"Health rating 'e' - I imagine that's pretty good. "
Last stretch of the day - on to Sainte-Croix 
Day 16 - Healthy Fruit  (the fruit's on the inside)
Day 16 - Birds
Day 16 - Elevation Profile
Day 16 - Route 
Day:  16
Distance: 28.43 km
Walking time:  5 hrs 54 mins
Elevation gain: 474 metres
Cumulative distance:  371.47 km

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DAY 80 - BOSSEY to GENEVA (Wednesday 5 July)

On the final day of our walk, we followed the Chemin de St Jacques south to Geneva, then went on to the water jet for the traditional end-of...