Dieppe to Geneva walk 2023

Thursday, 27 April 2023

DAY 11 - BRAY-SUR-SOMME to PÉRONNE (Thursday 27 April)

This was a quiet days walk along the Somme from Bray-sur-Somme to Péronne. The weather has changed for the better: it was dry all day, and a bit warmer than it has been. The day started with the usual routine: breakfast, pack and get on our way. We usually pick up our lunchtime bread and our healthy fruit on the way out of town.

The morning routine: picking up the daily bread and healthy fruit

Heading off for the day

We usually stop to admire things of interest on our way. These are more of the fresh produce cases that we have now seen a few times. The boxes are numbered, you pay the amount required for the box you want, the door opens and you take the goods. Often stocked by local producers, they normally contain fruit and vegetables but can also stock eggs, honey, home-made jams, etc.

Of course, we also keep an eye out for any interesting birdlife.

This morning we spotted this duck hiding in a windowbox

There were no major highlights today, apart perhaps from a few new birds. We basically walked a few kilometres to get to the Somme, walked along it for about 20 kilometres, and left it to enter the historic town of Péronne. Along the way we came across the usual sights: reflections, interesting birdlife, and people going about their business.

Reflections in the Somme

People going about their business by the Somme

Boats in the Somme

Muskrat and birds going about their business in the Somme.

We arrived in Péronne in the middle of the afternoon, with plenty of time to try a little sketching before checking in to our b&b. We then rested up ahead of a few longer days ahead.

Australian tourist sketching the heroine of Péronne

Day 11 - Healthy Fruit

Day 11 - More Healthy Fruit

Day 11 - Birds

Day 11 - Elevation Profile

Day 11 - Route

Day: 11

Distance: 25.05 km

Walking time: 5 hrs 15 mins

Elevation gain: 220 metres

Cumulative distance: 253.34 km

Wednesday, 26 April 2023

DAY 10 - ALBERT to BRAY-SUR-SOMME (Wednesday 26 April)

We spent today wandering around some of the iconic sites of the Western Front. After a copious breakfast, we set off for the British memorial at Thiepval. Our route out of Albert took us past an area of allotments, skirted a couple of ponds, and then joined a road heading north.

A copious breakfast. The Australian long-distance walker is apparently circling the table trying to decide what to eat first.

Allotments at Albert. Our b&b hosts had explained to us that they shared one of these plots with some friends. Coincidentally, our hostess was working in her allotment as we passed by.

We stopped for a chat. After discussing the work they were doing on their allotment, the gardeners were keen to help us find the best route to Thiepval.

Our hostess Joëlle next to Kath, with her friends at the allotment they work together.

The path from Albert to Thiepval

Our path took us past the peaceful setting of Blighty Valley Cemetery, one of several World War I commemoration sites we were to pass during the course of the day. We were on a forestry track for a short time before emerging to the sight of the Thiepval Monument in front of us.

Blighty Valley Cemetery

The path took us through a forest path before emerging with the Thiepval Memorial ahead of us

We had a lengthy stop at Thiepval. As with most of the famous sights we are visiting on this trip, we are not trying to do anything more than illustrate with a few photos the impressions we have as we pass through. There is a lot of information readily available online for those who wish to learn more about these places.

The Thiepval Monument

There was an official-looking photo shoot taking place at the monument while we were there. No doubt an interesting story being told.

From Thiepval we headed to the nearby village of Pozières. We were entering the region where Australian soldiers were active during the campaigns in 1916. We visited a few memorial sites, and had a coffee at the interestingly decorated Le Tommy.

The road to Pozières

1st Australian Division Memorial, Pozières

In Pozières we had a refreshing coffee at Le Tommy, which was decorated with a large selection of World War I memorabilia.

From Pozières we made our way through Fricourt, with its German Cemetery, to Bray-sur-Somme, where we are staying the night. There were several more WWI-related sights on the way.

Scenic road from Pozières to Fricourt

German Cemetery, Fricourt

At the German Cemetery we were approached by a local farmer, who told us about the history of his nearby farm. He invited us to come and see a German bunker on his farm, but it was a bit far for us to get to on foot, so we politely declined.

We haven't come across many public toilets on our trip so far. We did find this one in Fricourt, but decided not to use it.

From Fricourt we navigated a way to Bray-sur-Somme that avoided the main road. We walked through peaceful agricultural scenery to our day's destination.

Bombshell on the route

Freshly ploughed fields

Approaching the end of the day's walk

Day 10 - Healthy Fruit

Day 10 - Birds

Day 10 - Elevation Profile

Day 10 - Route

Day: 10

Distance: 25.36 km

Walking time: 5 hrs 19 mins

Elevation gain: 332 metres

Cumulative distance: 228.29 km

Tuesday, 25 April 2023

DAY 9 - CORBIE to ALBERT (Tuesday 25 April)

This was a day we had been looking forward to for some time, as we had booked tickets for the Villers-Bretonneux Anzac Day dawn service. We woke up just before 3am, in order to get to the Australian War Memorial at 4am to take our seats for the service. We walked through the streets of Corbie, then joined the throngs heading up the hill, which had been illuminated for our benefit.

Walking through Corbie in the early hours. It was cold and wet.

Joining the throngs on the illuminated pathway to the Australian War Memorial

On arriving at the memorial, we made our way through passport and ticket checks, and security screening. Then it was a quick detour to the tent where free coffee and croissants were on offer before making our way to our seats for the service. It was cold and wet (please forgive me if you've heard those words before), but the event organisers had provided us all with clear waterproof ponchos. These didn't do much to protect against the cold, but they did help to keep us dry.

We enjoyed the coffee and croissants on offer . . .

. . . before making our way to our seats

We were dressed for the occasion . . .

. . . as was just about everyone else there.

The service was very well done, with lots of personal stories from the Western Front in World War I, some poignant speeches from French and Australian dignitaries, and just the right amount of pomp and ceremony. It was a highlight of our trip so far, and highly recommended for anyone contemplating attending this ceremony in the future.

The French Flag- carriers making their exit after the ceremony

The eager crowd watching the dignitaries leave the ceremony

The happy crowd leaving the memorial after the ceremony

Some of the crowd wandered through the cemetery on the way out

There was a strong Australian element to the Dawn Service. Most of the speeches and songs were in English, and there were numerous tour groups among the attendees.

From the service, we headed back to our hotel to have breakfast. We then checked out, and left Corbie via the GR800 along the Somme River. As on previous days, the path along the water provided some wonderful reflections, and the opportunity for amateur bird-watchers to indulge their hobby. We haven't seen any shelducks for a few days now, but the great crested grebe was out and about again today. We left the river after a few kilometres at Vaux-sur-Somme, and made a small detour to see the Red Baron memorial. After a successful career as a wartime fighter pilot, the Red Baron was killed when his plane was shot down near here in 1918.

The GR800 between Corbie and Vaux-sur-Somme - more reflections and another great crested grebe.

This insect house by the GR800 caught the eye of a passing Australian tourist

The Red Baron Memorial, outside Vaux-sur-Somme

From Vaux-sur-Somme we walked on mostly quiet country streets and headed to the day's destination at Albert. Apart from a brief stop at the Memorial to 3rd Division of the Australian Army, there was not much to detain us on the way.